Free Dog Training Tips for New Dog or Puppy Owners

By far the best dog training tips originate from dog owners and trainers who have faced challenges and solved them successfully.

Using the advice of certified professional dog trainers both directly (hiring a trainer) and indirectly (through resources such as books and DVDs), the author trained two Cockapoo puppies that are now three years old. Are they perfect?

 Of course not - dog training never ends. It's a continuous process hopefully built on a solid foundation of mutual trust and doggie habit.

Quite frankly, issues continue to pop up. Right now, Sir Arf-A-Lot challenges me on a daily basis with inappropriate barking. So I re-researched the "stop the barking" resources and came up with a plan.

Unfortunately, the plan cannot work until the family member who refuses to listen but constantly complains about the barking leaves for another place of residence.

It ain't gonna work unless everyone is on board. That's one of my lessons learned contained in my free dog training tips: dog training is doomed unless all of the participants agree to consistently apply the solution.

The Contents of the Free Dog Training Tips

The tips are divided into three categories of articles: house training a dog, basic obedience training, and solutions to dog aggression.

For example, there is an article in the obedience training section that discusses the five basic dog obedience commands. An article in the house training category relates puppy crate training tips. And the section on aggression reveals how to handle the most common puppy aggression topic - biting and mouthing.

The Benefits of Free Dog Training Tips

For new dog and puppy owners, the benefits of this information are obvious. You get the information for free and you know it worked because the author has proof.

 The best example - Simon the Cockapoo began puppy biting from the day we brought him home to the point where he finally figured out humans are not litter mates. I consistently applied the technique I explain in the article mentioned above. His biting diminished and stopped in about a week.

More proof - both dogs are house trained - they let us know when they want to go outdoors for relief. There's no slipping up at all. And yes, they know the basic obedience commands.

How do I benefit? I have shared the information so that someone else won't make the same mistake. I have tested a good number of products, reviewed them, and posted the reviews as articles. You may or may not need a chew toy to stop dog chewing or a dog training DVD, but at least the resource is there if you decide it's worthwhile.

These free dog training tips are contained in a series of articles entitled Designerpuppys Dog and Puppy Training Lensography. A lens is an article and a lensography is a collection of lenses on the web site squidoo.com. Click dog training tips to access the collection of articles.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Valerie_Mills

Averting Medical-Related Poodle Problems

Owning any kind of dog comes with definite responsibility.

The owner must be willing to accept the costs of numerous aspects of dog care, including grooming, training, walking, feeding, and the financial burden of health care for the animal.

This last concern is of special interest to poodle owners, who end up spending more money on health care for their pets than do the owners of other dog breeds.

The poodle is prone to developing various kinds of medical issues, which can take a variety of forms and effect different areas of the dog's body.

Since many of the conditions are complicated, it is best to have a general grasp of what sort of medical issues can crop up, helping the owner to avoid medical related poodle problems. The sooner a problem is spotted, the sooner it can be treated and further complications prevented by a veterinarian, insuring the long life of the poodle.

Poodles are especially prone to issues with their eyes. These include entropion, sebaceous adenitis, cataracts, and persistent pupillary membranes.

 They are also prone to progressive retinal atrophy, which can lead to blindness if untreated. Poodles should be checked regularly by a veterinarian to avoid developing these eye diseases.

Distichiasis is another eye condition to which poodles are prone. It is the term for the growth of an extra eyelash from the meibomian gland near the edge of the dog's eyelid. This is not usually serious, unless it leads to the formation of an ectopic cilia, which can lead to corneal ulcers and horrible pain for the dog.

It is best to have the dog regularly examined. This will help in averting these types of poodle problems.

Von Willebrand's disease arises from blood disorders in poodles. It occurs when proteins existing in platelets of the dog's blood are disturbed and form abnormalities, affecting the blood's ability to clot. It is a hereditary disorder. This disease is also found in humans but exists in poodles as well.

Many poodles are also prone to allergies, which are not usually serious, but are irritating for both the animal and the owner.

Some are also likely to have epilepsy, a seizure disorder which can be either mild or severe. If the animal's epilepsy is severe, it can be very difficult for the owner to care for the animal, especially if it is large in size.

 If a poodle begins to have seizures, it is important to get it to the vet without delay so the animal can be effectively diagnosed and treated.

Patellar luxation and hip dysplasia are some of the joint disorders to which poodles are prone. While these are not fatal conditions, they can be quite painful for the dog. If noticing any abnormalities in a poodle's gait, have the veterinarian check for these conditions.

Regular vet visits are essential for the health and well-being of poodles, and avoiding medical poodle problems.

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Important Considerations For Weimaraner Puppy Training

One way in which owners of Weimaraner puppies sometimes misunderstand the role of crate training is that they assume it must take the form of a kind of punishment.

 For many people, the idea of keeping a dog in a crate for any length of time seems unpleasant or even barbaric, and as a result they have difficulty understanding that it might be enjoyable for the dog.

However, Weimaraner puppy training should not be unpleasant at all for the dog.

On the contrary, your pet should learn to see its crate as its favorite place, somewhere that is peaceful and secure. In order to instill the right attitude in the dog's mind towards its crate, it is vital that you train in a specific way, following particular rules and never breaking them.

The first and most important point is to understand that the crate is not an excuse to avoid interacting with your dog. Weimaraners are social dogs - they require interaction a great deal - and shutting them away rather than playing with them is a terrible way to treat them.

Maybe two hours of time should be spent every day just playing with him or her, so it simply does not work to have the attitude that this is a bad thing.

Leaving the dog in the crate away from people is out of the question. The crate should preferably be in a family area where the dog can hear and see its owners. It should simply see its crate as a comfortable place to return to, rather than an unpleasant place used for punishment.

A necessary follow-on from this rule is that Weimaraner puppy training must not take place for too long at a time. In fact, for puppies, the maximum time will likely be curtailed by their need to urinate, given the small size of their bladders.

The ideal time left in the crate will never be more than a few hours, even for more mature dogs, and for puppies the number may be measured in minutes. Always remember that the general rule of thumb is that the dog must see its crate as a comfortable place to spend some time, not a dungeon that it fears or reviles.

A final note to consider is that this training should be done in addition to regular dog familiarization, not instead of it.

If your Weimaraner puppy training does not also involve interaction with other dogs, then he or she will never learn how to interact properly, and will always be insecure or awkward around other dogs.

 In order to train your Weimaraner to be sociable and safe around other dogs and people, a combination of crate training and regular interaction is important.

Are you looking for more information on weimaraner training [http://www.weimaranerbehavior.com/weimaraner-training/]? If you have a weimaraner bark [http://www.weimaranerbehavior.com/weimaraner-bark/] problem or other issues with your dog, be sure to visit my site for the best solutions in training this breed.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sandy_Rutherforde

How to Calm a Dog

If you're the owner of a hyperactive dog, you're already well aware of how frustrating even the simplest of tasks can be with your pup. Obedience class?

 No way! He's way too hyper and loves to chase the other dogs. How about the dog park? Nope! He won't stop jumping up on other owners. How about having some friends over? Forget it! He'll just jump up on those people too. Oh, and he just might have a run around the house once or twice for good measure.

At the end of the day you still love and adore your furry friend, so you grumble and accept the fact that your dog is nuts. Certifiably insane. Maybe he even suffers from ADD or ADHD.

 It's totally possible! Or, maybe he just thinks we don't see him, so he has to ensure we know he's around at all hours of the day/night.

"Hello! I'm here! Look at me! I know how to jump!" At first I really just blamed myself because, after all, your dog's manners are often a reflection of your own behavior. Maybe I'm the one who's nuts?

The truth is, you and I are not nuts. Neither is your dog. He may just be in his puppy or adolescent stage where this kind of behavior is quite common.

 Certain breeds are also prone to be more active, so there are a couple of different factors involved. One thing's for sure, it would be really nice to learn how to calm a dog, right? Try these quick fixes to help break Fido's "sugar rush" behavior.

Keep Calm and Be Gentle With Your Commands 

Remember, your dog will feed off of your energy, so it's good to remain clam. When it's time to go for a walk and he starts acting like he's just ate a couple bowls full of sugar, it doesn't help to scramble around trying to attach the leash to him. Trust me, I've fallen right on my tuckus a few times trying to do this! Yelling, or scolding him won't help either.

 He just sees this as reinforcement for his behavior. While you're thinking, "Fido, sit down and quit being a maniac!" he's thinking, "Oh great! Mom or Dad likes it when I jump around at walk time!"

Instead, try standing still with the leash in hand and calmly ask him to "sit." If he continues to run around, or jump about, ask him again.

 Do not give in to his rambunctious behavior and attach his leash while he's fidgeting. Eventually, he'll get the hint that you're just going to stand still until he sits.

 Once he's sat down calmly for a few seconds, then attach the leash and be on your way. You may find that when you actually go to hook on the leash, he'll start acting up again. If this happens, stand back up and stay still until he sits calmly again.

My dog got the hang of this during our first session and after a few days he stopped acting up altogether when it was time to go out.

Ignore the Behavior 

If you're quietly trying to get a few pages of reading in and your dog suddenly feels the urge to pretend he's a circus dog, your first reaction might be to yell, "Stop it!" Do your best to refrain from this. Instead, try ignoring the behavior.

 No yelling, no touching - nothing! Don't even look at him. Stand your ground and he's going to quickly realize that acting this way will get him no attention from you. Once he settles down, give him praise.

Exercise! 

Lack of exercise is probably the biggest reason why your dog is so hyperactive. Dogs need daily exercise, just like humans do. Otherwise, they will get bored and with boredom often comes chewing problems, incessant barking, anxiety and a whole slew of other problems.

 How would you feel if you drank 10 cups of coffee, but had to stay in one room for the entire day? You might start jumping around yourself just to burn off some of that energy.

They often say a tired dog is a good dog! If they've exhausted all of their pent up energy, they'll feel content and relaxed. Take him out for a vigorous walk, let him run in the yard for awhile, or play a game of fetch and you'll soon find yourself with a calm pup.

Remember, puppies and adolescent dogs tend to have more energy, so they'll need a lot more from their owners during this time. German Shepards, Border Collies and Golden Retrievers are just a few of the breeds that tend to be more energetic.

They will need a lot of exercise throughout all the stages of their lives.

 Setting up a routine that includes playtime and exercise will give your dog something to look forward to. He'll soon learn the proper time to let out his energetic behaviors and when to settle down and relax.

Calming a dog down is one of the most important aspects of dog training. Oftentimes dog training tools can help the process move along smoothly, but calming a dog is something that takes time.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rene_Emery

Guard Dog Training for the Family Pet

A common misconception made by many people is that only some breeds of dog can be security or guards. The reality is that most breeds of dogs can be extremely effective security dogs with the correct training.

For us to understand what makes a good guard dog, we must first understand what it entails. Guard dogs work as a deterrent and scare off intruders.

 This means that it doesn't really matter what size, shape or how big their teeth are! Some of the best guards are tiny but the burglar doesn't even get close enough to see them!

To be an effective guard dog, it is what inside that counts and the smaller dog could have a piercing bark that you can hear ten blocks away!

So how old do they have to be?

 There is no doubt that the younger a dog receives training, the easier it is to train. Also, the quicker they trained, the better - often a squealing puppy can be far more effective alarm than a moaning old dog!

There are more benefits of having a smaller, less likely guard dog than a bigger more stereotypical guard go dog too. Not only will they take up less space, they will probably put less strain on your clean home and also be safer around your children.

 Contrary to popular belief too, smaller dogs are just as valuable when ridding a house of vermin and rodents - after all, a rat can't tell if a poodle is cute or not!

Getting along with your neighbours is essential (which of course is where the correct guard dog training comes in), so when deciding on whether to have a guard dog, many opt for an alarm instead.

 In a busy city centre for example, having a dog roaming around is not practical and so people find different methods of protecting their home.

If you live in an area where walking the dog may cause problems then perhaps the latter option is the best for you too.

You can often gauge whether your neighbours will be receptive to the idea of having dogs in your neighbourhood but if not, it might be worth asking them.

Even the most understanding of neighbours can get annoyed with a dog barking - especially if it happens regularly for no reason at all!

How good your dog is at being a security dog comes down to the training it has received.

 The basic principles employed when training a dog to "'Come" or "Heel" are used in training a dog to become a guard dog. Positive reinforcement is the key to it all and rewarding certain behaviours is fundamental.

Training your dog to bark only at what you as the trainer deem to be a threat is extremely important. Having your dog bark at every strange noise is less than ideal and is likely to cause conflict with your neighbours too!

There are many benefits to training your dog to be a guard dog. Having peace of mind when you leave the house is an obvious one.

 The bond you will form with your dog whilst doing guard dog training will also be improved but it will take a great deal of patience and persistence, primarily on your behalf!

For more information please visit Guard Dog Training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danny_E_Moore

Best Dog Training Techniques

The moment you bring home a dog with you is the moment you will think about his welfare and how things will change around when it is with you.

There are a lot of things to consider about owning a dog. It is not about giving a regular vet check-up, giving a proper dog grooming, buy chew toys or provide the best treat. The most and primary thing to consider about owning a dog is to give a proper training.

Owning a dog is not just a privilege - it is coupled with responsibility. And it is your responsibility to give a dog training. But you may be wondering, with all of the dog trainings available these days, what could be the best among them?

As a responsible pet owner, you want nothing but the best for your dog. But giving the best doesn't have to be expensive. Isn't it that the best things in life are free? Spare your free time and train your dog yourself.

Not only that it is rewarding to see your dog's progress when you train it personally, but also the relationship it create and the bond that gets stronger each session of the training.

Before you start with the proper training you need to know first your goal, learn the basics, and the method of training that you think is best for your dog.

In setting your goal, you must achieve your dog's calmness; an open communication with you and your dog, a habit that both you and your dog can share, and your dog's thinking skills to adapt to everything life will throw your way in the future.

There is a wide variety of dog training used by professional dog trainers worldwide. But you are the best person in the world to train your dog.

Here are few of many various dog training techniques you can do by yourself: dog whispering, clicker training, positive reinforcement, marker training, collar and leash, reward training etc.

Clicker dog training is a positive, reward based training method which relies on co-operation, consistency, repetition and positive reinforcement. Clicker training is free from any violence or harsh corrections.

Those are just a few definitions of training techniques you can use for your dog. You get to decide what is applicable to and what works best.

 Whatever your choice may be, keep in mind that using the very latest dog training techniques will aid you properly care for, socialize and train your dog in a positive, non violent yet highly effective manner.

 What is important is to actually get out there with your ever-willing dog and apply the lessons with consistency, persistence, compassion and common sense.

Besides, only you can discover if what is the best dog training for your pet, so have fun!

A. Ricafort is a clicker training expert. For more great information on best dog training, visit http://www.dogclickertrainingtips.net.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Alvin_S_Ricafort

 

Dog Training Advice

House Training
Housetraining can be a breeze if you use dog-friendly methods. It is as simple as preventing mistakes (using on-leash supervision and confinement) and rewarding your dog for eliminating in the right spot (indoors on pads, paper, or litter; or outdoors).

 Being a good doggy time manager is what house training is all about- making sure that your dog is in the right place at the right time.

Mistakes happen because the dog is either in the right place at the wrong time or in the wrong place at the right time. If, for example, you take your dog for a walk to relieve himself when he doesn't need to go, he will probably need to go when he gets back inside!

 This is an example of being in the right place (outside) at the wrong time (when he doesn't need to go). Once the dog gets back inside, you have an example of being in the wrong place (inside) at the right time (when he needs to go).

During house training, your dog needs to be taken to his doggy toilet (the right place) when he needs to eliminate (the right time), and he needs to be rewarded for going.

 All you have to do is make sure you don't give him the opportunity to make any mistakes in the wrong spot, and pretty soon your dog will have developed a strong habit and desire to eliminate in a particular area-his doggy toilet. Developing this strong habit is the essence of house training.

Dogs usually need a trip to the doggy toilet thirty to ninety minutes after eating a meal or drinking, so a well-planned feeding and watering schedule will help you determine when your dog will need to relieve himself.

Your dog will also need to go after playing and when he wakes up. So you can be pretty sure that your dog will need to go to the bathroom when he wakes up, soon after eating and drinking, and after playing. This is especially true with puppies who haven't yet developed strong bladder and bowel muscles.

However, successful house training requires more accurately predicting when your dog needs to go. The best way to do so is to use confinement.

 Confining your dog to a small area, such as a crate, inhibits him from eliminating because most puppies and dogs naturally want to keep their sleeping areas clean.

So your dog will need to eliminate when you release him from his crate and take him to his doggy toilet.

Don't fall into the trap of thinking that confining your dog is cruel.

 Using confinement in an educated manner is not unkind, especially considering how it accelerates house training (and chew-toy training) and therefore how quickly your dog can be trusted to spend his time in all safe areas of your home.

We use confinement to help keep our children safe (for example, cribs), and we can likewise use it with our dogs.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ovidiu_C_Bakk

Training a Gundog Isn't Hard - Lesson 0, Before You Begin

We are breaking this article into lists of do's and don't dos, with explanations for the reasons. Although some may seem common sense, you will not believe the number of people who make these mistakes and who end up with a dog that is confused.
 
Do buy a dog from working stock  

Breeding is important to livestock. It controls not just the looks of the animal, but also the capabilities - the sense of smell, the intelligence and disposition. 

Although we can mould behaviour in the animal, you will find it much easier to direct something that comes naturally, rather than instill it from scratch. It used to be the practice, when dogs were seen more as livestock than pets or companions, to rid yourself of a dog with vices 

Do dress appropriately for dog training 

By this I don't mean that you should always train in your shooting gear, but remember if you spend eighteen months training your dog to respond to hand-signals in casual clothes in a bare field, he will probably wonder where the hell you are when you are dressed in your real-tree head to toe against a matching background. If you find yourself in a bright place, think before you wear sunglasses.

 My wife, Terry, was working our English Springer in an obedience competition attended by the local press. The bitch (by which you all know I mean Bonnie) would not approach her on the recall. When the line-up photo appeared in the local paper, the thing that jumped out of the page at you was Terry's sunglasses! Bonnie was obviously stressed by being asked to come to her wearing these, so if your animal starts circling you rather than her usual straight in approach, do whip your glasses off.

1. Don't think that your dog thinks in the same way as yourself Because they don't! They see the world in muted colours - to a dog's eyes the orange retrieving dummies actually end up a very similar colour to grass, which is why they sometimes make a hash of finding them. They are also much more aware of scent and sound, and when you think how we think in pictures and words, our main senses for the world being vision and sound, I wonder if dogs think in scent and sounds?
2. Say it once The aim is to teach a dog to respond to a single command, not the second, third or fourth. For this reason, always teach a dog new commands in a way that you can control the situation and ensure that he obeys. As an example, when you are teaching the dog to present a retrieve in a classic manner, that is, sat square in front of you with head lifted, use a corridor joining onto the dog's sleeping quarters (in our case, the kitchen). With my back to the kitchen and the dog sat at my side, I will throw a short retrieve. Once the dog fetches the dummy, his first instinct is not to run over and give it to me, but to run back to the bed and chew it. By setting myself in a narrow corridor I am in a good position to intercept him, encourage him to sit in front of me. Getting him to present nicely? A previous lesson involves getting him to come to you in the same corridor, and using a small treat to raise his head...
3. Punishment Always assume that if a dog does not obey, he is not being contrary, he just isn't aware of what is wanted. Only when a dog has been obeying a command for several weeks, and suddenly decides not to, are you right to even consider punishment. This should be used as a last resort, and both your's and the dog's personalities taken into account. Remember this is a relationship you are working on, and the best relationship involves trust and commitment on both sides. Never punish a dog when he returns to you, especially if you call him. Suppose you let him out in your garden, when next door's pet rabbit has just pulled itself through the hedge. Your dog decides to play foxes and rabbits, and accidentally kills the bunny. You scream at him, he starts to run in fear, then you call him and he comes. If you punish him now, he will forever think he is in trouble when you recall him or when he smells a rabbit. Look at it from his point of view.
4. Temptation When you start training, make sure that temptation never abounds in the area. If you are doing retrieving outside for the first time, don't go where the dog is likely to fall over a rabbit and set off in hot pursuit. If game is around, walk the ground first to chase it off, then the dog can enjoy hunting the ground with a lower risk of giving you a coronary. That is not to say a little temptation is a bad thing - but build up to it. You should eventually be able to stop your dog in full flow with a peep on your whistle.

Say it quietly Before my dog lost his hearing (and he is deaf; he doesn't hear the rattle of a crisp packet now) I had a party trick. German Short-haired Pointers don't really like sitting in a field. At four hundred yards, I would give a little peep and he would stop and look at me. If it had been thirty yards he would have sat, (he knew the range at which I considered a sit compulsory and worth the walk to enforce it!). Since he was nearly a quarter of a mile away, and knowing I would only walk it occasionally to discuss his manners with him, at that range he would stop, but just look at me. Without any visual signals, I would hiss 'sssttt!' very quietly, and he would instantly sit, to non-doggy people's amazement. The point of what I am trying to get across here, is that a dog doesn't need to be shouted at, blasted with a whistle, unless it is a dire emergency, so don't do it - you will see much more game. 

He is currently developing a Gundog Training Site, which you can visit here!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ken_Devonald

Top Tips For Potty Training Puppies

Let's be clear from the start. A potty is not used when potty training puppies. What we are talking about is house training your puppy so that it eliminates outdoors or in a designated indoor area rather than anywhere in the home.

1. Don't look on potty training puppies as the unpleasant or messy side of owning a puppy. Rather see it as the first stage of a bonding process. One that will result in a happy and healthy relationship. That is the real reward of house training a dog.
2. Start potty training as soon as you get your puppy home. But remember they don't yet have full control of their bladder and bowel functions.
3. Feeding should take place at the same times every day. Do not feed with four hours of bedtime and withdraw the water bowl two hours before bedtime. A routine is essential. That means you too have to stick to a routine by getting up and going to bed at the same time every day.
4. Take the puppy outside into the yard or for a walk first thing in the morning, 10 to 15 minutes after every meal or drink and last thing at night. Do not play with them until they have eliminated.
5. If after 10 minutes there is no action take the puppy back to its crate. Wait 10 to 15 minutes then take them out again.
6. Be sure to praise the puppy and reward them with a little playtime every time it does "the business".
7. Restrict your puppy to rooms with washable floors until he is house trained.

Simply taking your dog out in the backyard a few times every day is not the way to potty train a puppy. After all, how do they know what they are being taken outside for?

Find step-by-step instructions on house training puppies.
Discover the easiest and most reliable method for potty training puppies. Whatever the breed. Whatever the age.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ben_Sinclair

Great Puppy House Training Techniques

House training your new puppy may not be as difficult as you might have imagined. The techniques used for potty training / house training a puppy are the same for all breeds and if they are followed, will work relatively quickly, usually within two weeks.

The single most important part of house training a puppy is patience.

When you get a new puppy you need to accept the fact that there will be some accidents in the early stages if training.

 Be prepared for accidents, clean them up and move on. If you follow the training steps outlined below, accidents will not occur for an extended period of time.

Develop a Routine -

You must have a routine. Dogs are creatures of habit and having a routine to follow each day will help your puppy learn quickly, where the appropriate place is to go potty. Avoid feeding or giving your puppy food or water close to bed time. A puppy is not capable of holding his water for long periods of time.

Identify an area -

Identify an area outside of your house that your puppy should use to go potty. An area close to the house or apartment is advisable since in the early stages of training you will want to be able to get there quickly. Your puppy will soon learn what that area is used for.

Have a schedule -

Take your puppy outside frequently. In the early stages of training I suggest taking him outside at a minimum, every two hours and especially after eating or drinking.

Always take your puppy outside as soon as he wakes up in the morning. Keep a close eye on your puppy at all times to identify when he is getting ready to urinate.

 You can usually recognize when your puppy is getting ready to go potty. He will start sniffing around and then squat. Your challenge is to pick him up and get him outside before he does the dirty deed in the house.

Key Word or Phrase -

It's helpful to have a key word or phrase for the puppy to identify with, for going potty outside. I use the phrase "Want to go outside?". Once I say the phrase, I immediately take him outside to the designated area. This will help your puppy link the phrase to the action.

 If you catch your puppy urinating in the house, say "No!" with a firm voice. A puppy will recognize the inflection in your voice and possibly stop what he is doing, giving you the time to take him outside. The tone of voice is very helpful when training your puppy.

If you're going to correct your puppy with a firm "No!" you need to do it while the puppy is in the act of urinating or defecating. Five minutes after the deed is done will not get the message across to the puppy, regarding what you are unhappy about.

Reward and Praise -

Reward him when he does goes outside. It is crucial that you praise your puppy every time he goes potty in the appropriate area. Praise him in a happy voice saying "Good Boy!!" and pet him. You may also want to give him a treat that he likes.

Accidents -

There are bound to be accidents, so accept that fact up front and be prepared for them. In the early days of potty training your puppy, keep him away from carpeted areas. It's much easier to clean up a mess on a tile or wood floor than a carpeted one.

 When there is an accident, and there will be, just clean it up and move on. Negative actions such as putting your puppy's nose in his mess are not productive. Do not attempt to "Punish" your puppy for having an accident. Punishment may encourage him to hide his mess in an area that is not noticeable to you.

Dog Crates -

I cannot emphasize enough the benefits of using a dog crate. Using a dog crate is very helpful to house train your puppy since dogs will usually avoid urinating or defecating in their sleeping area.

When you are leaving your puppy alone for a long period of time, place his crate in a small room. A laundry room or bathroom is a good option. Close the door to the room and leave the dog crate door open.

 Place newspapers in the room that the puppy can get to and use to go potty.

If you're looking for professional dog training techniques that really work, you'll be interested in this online dog training program that guarantees results. Puppy Training Online!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aiden_Tordini